A soup for (almost) soup season

Lentils are the shit!

There’s a small, counter-service Lebanese restaurant in Chicago’s Andersonville neighborhood called Taste of Lebanon that makes the purest, most satisfying lentil soup: starchy, half-disintegrated pulses lazing in savory broth seasoned with salt, cumin (maybe?) and plenty of pepper. It comes in a shallow styrofoam bowl with a folded-up triangle of markouk bread for sopping. I bolt it down every time—gulping with abandon like I haven’t been so gloriously nourished in weeks. Good soup does this to me. 

I’ve tried, unsuccessfully, to recreate Taste of Lebanon’s lentil soup many times. I know I’m missing a trick or two seasoning-wise; perhaps there’s something to the broth they cook it in, a sneaky spice they deploy or a certain seasoned pot they use. In any case, I eventually gave up on this quest, deciding instead to delight in this excellent reason to leave the house and hop on my bike to grab lunch. 

That doesn’t mean I don’t cook plenty of lentils. My favorite application of late is this golden-hued, curried red lentil soup. Red lentils are a terrific lunchtime pulse because they cook in less than 30 minutes. You can substitute also-quick-cooking brown lentils, but I like the sweet, nutty red most in this application; they beautifully complement the coconut milk. They also fall apart readily, thickening the soup as their deep orange color fades to autumnal yellow—a deliciously maudlin moment for those of us who relish fall, whenever the hell it decides to get here.

Cooks’ note:

If you’ve lost touch with our old, vintage friend, chicken bouillon powder, I’d suggest getting reacquainted. (I wrote a love letter to it one time!) An umami-rich dusting of this golden stuff supercharges the flavor of nearly everything it touches. Given its high sodium content, I don’t use much when cooking, and cut back on the remaining salt.

Golden lentil soup

serves 3

Olive oil, as needed
1 shallot or ½ a small onion, minced
3 or 4 fat garlic cloves, minced
¼ tsp salt, plus more to taste
Freshly cracked pepper, to taste
2 rounded tsps curry powder
½ tsp cumin
¾ tsp chicken bouillon powder 
1 cup red lentils
1 can full-fat coconut milk
3 cups water
1 lemon, cut in half
Optional: ½ cup cooked white rice, for serving
Cut lemon wedges, for serving

Method:

1. Heat a heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven over medium, and add a few good glugs of olive oil. When the oil slides easily around the pan, add the shallots, garlic, salt and pepper. Sauté the aromatics for 2 or 3 minutes, until fragrant. 

2. Add the curry powder, cumin and bouillon powder, and cook for another 30 seconds until you can smell the spices. Stir in the lentils, and cook for another 30 seconds until they’re shiny from the oil and well coated in the aromatics.  

3. Add the coconut milk and water, using a portion of the water to rinse out the can over the pot. Squeeze in the juice of half the lemon. 

4. Cover and bring to a boil, then turn down to medium low. It’s a good idea to taste at this point and see if you’re on the right track, or if you need a touch more curry, bouillon, cumin, or olive oil for velvety richness. Simmer the soup for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the lentils are soft and fuzzy at the edges. Stir frequently throughout cooking to prevent the starchy pulses from sticking to the bottom of the pot. 

5. Just before serving, squeeze the remaining lemon half over the soup, and stir in the rice (optional). Taste, and adjust the seasoning again as needed. Ladle into deep bowls, drizzle with olive oil and crack some more pepper over the top. Serve with lemon wedges.